Gustin Japan Classic Japanese raw selvedge denim
#rawdenim #selvedge #craftbeer
Over the past few years fedoras, pork pies and other vintage era hats have continuously grown in renewed popularity. They seem to appeal to everyone from alt rockers to Hollywood celebs to…well, suburban dads like me. They even have their own community The Fedora Lounge. Here in San Diego you’ll find an abundance on display for opening day at Del Mar Racetrack. Of course with every fashion trend comes an influx of cheap imports for the masses. When I finally decided to wear something other than a baseball cap, I settled on this hat from America’s other, Bailey of Hollywood. The 100% wool felt “Fairbanks” is still made right here in the good ol’ USA.
Hat: Bailey Fairbanks. $70 ($29 Gilt.com) Pictured:
Trucker Jacket: Gustin Waxed Canvas Olive Brown. $139.
Oxford: Merona (Target). Fit is everything. For some reason Targets oxfords and t-shirts fit great.
Wool Shirt: Pendleton. Vintage Jeans: Gustin ‘the Natural’. $81
Mentioned: Borsalino Crushable Fedora. $270. Ouch!
If you like Gustin here’s a Discount Referral Code
I don’t often drink red ales, but when I do it’s usually Karl Strauss’ “Red Trolley,” which they described as a medium bodied beer with heavyweight malts. Reddish brown in color, like my Fedora. I think of the era in which men didn’t leave the house without a hat, and took the street cars to various destinations.
Red trolley is very malty without being sweet. Nor does it have any hint of that signature San Diego bitterness. Definitely strong caramel flavors shine through what was once just a holiday ale from these original San Diego brewers. If you’re ever in San Diego I highly recommend you enjoy one of Karl Strauss’ many fine ales at their newly remodeled Sorrento Valley location. there’s worse places to drink beer. Karl Strauss Sorrento Valley.
Beer: Karl Strauss Red Trolley
Yes. I know it’s a typo. More like struck a bargain. I was at TJ Maxx when I came upon these Rag & Bone RB15X-C slim cords. These are styled like 5-pocket jeans.
I know these aren’t denim but I still respect the American craftsmanship and modern twist on an old style that goes into these.
And they’re Made in USA. Los Angeles to be specific.
I’d like to believe these have a small carbon footprint but I suspect they’ve made a pretty circuitous route through various retail warehouses around the country until they found their way to San Diego. Nonetheless I’m happy to own American quality at Target prices.
More about the fit. These are great slims. I have an athletic build and some slim cut trousers really fit/feel like skinny jeans. These have a mid-rise 4-button fly and straight legs, so they still fit comfortably.
I mentioned the 5 pocket style. I appreciate the classic rivets where a small amount of fabric shows through. This is similar to the LVC MADE IN USA 505s.
Nice touches like the handsewn logo.
Pants: Rag & Bone Cords
Material: 100% cotton. 8 oz.
Cost: $185. $29 at TJ Maxx.
Since I bought two pair, the slim legs could be shotgun barrels, and one pair is colored “Wine” by Rag & Bone, I’ll go with one of my favorite ales.
I don’t know what it is I like do much about this modern take on British Pale Ale. A portion of beer is fermented in oak barrels then blended with beer fermented in stainless steel. The result is a very rich, full ale with a strong, caramel & oak flavor in the middle.
At only 30 IBUs the full flavor of the ale comes through, unhidden by the voluminous hops normally present in coastal California ales. Instead of plagiarizing their own description, I encourage you to read the tasting notes at Firestone Walker Brewing Company‘s own page.
Beer: Firestone Walker “Double Barrel Ale”
Sadly my aforementioned Gustin Naturals didn’t fit. Because Gustin does not carry inventory they’re limited to what’s on hand if you immediately want a new pair of jeans instead of store credit.
EAST MEETS WEST
Gustin offered me the American Sixteener or the midweight Japan Classic. San Diego just doesn’t get very cold and I’ve wanted some Japanese selvedge so I went with the latter in a size 32.
As the name implies, these are crafted of denim from one of Japan’s “finest mills” according to the Gustin website. The jeans are then made to order right here in California.
I’d say the denim itself is unremarkable in light of the many unique weaves Gustin also uses. But that’s what makes it an everyday classic.
That said, it’s very tightly woven. Breaking them in might take time, but they have a VERY smooth, soft hand for 13 oz denim.
Check out the custom rivets. If you have a problem down the road they’ll even send you more rivets.
Traditional white selvedge with a red ID.
Like most raw denim, these are only available in a 34″ inseam. I didn’t even know they use two colors for the inseam when I ordered these but it makes me appreciate them even more.
In my admitted very limited experience with quality-made clothes, the Gustins have some of the nicest chainstitching I’ve seen. Look closely, there’s actually a third color in the mix.
Jeans: Gustin Japan Classic
Material: 13 oz. 100% cotton Sanforized Japanese denim
Cost: $89. $84 with referral code
Japanese beer, right? If you think the only Japanese beers are Asahi and Sapporo, you probably think the only jeans are Levis and Wrangler.
Check out Hitachino Nest WA (White Ale) from Kiuchi Brewery. While the mass market beers mentioned above are your typical lagers, Nest WA is witbier that in my opinion had a decidedly California influence. While I can’t speak for Kiuchi specifically, it’s well documented that brewers worldwide visit San Diego to collaborate and learn from our craft beer scene.
Like the Japan Classic, Nest WA comes in slightly lighter with a smooth finish.
Compared to its Belgian counterparts, I find this witbier less spicy (think banana and clove) and more citrusy.
At a sessionable 5.5% abv and low bitterness, WA is an ale your can enjoy poolside, lakeside or mountainside without frying your tastebuds like I have with the Imperial IPAs.
Per their website adjuncts include Flaked Wheat, Flaked Barley, Coriander, Nutmeg, Orange peel, Orange Juice
Beer: Hitachino Nest White Ale
Sadly, I’m resigned to continue dreaming. The jeans pictured below didn’t fit. It’s a shame because they’re AWESOME! The “Naturals” are undyed cotton.
I bought these jeans from Kickstartr darlings Gustin. Gustin sources their denim from American-based Cone Mills as well as top Japanese and Italian Mills, rolling out a broad array of jeans using unique fabrics. They introduce each product as a campaign that individuals can fund at the wholesale price. These were $81 instead of the $135 to $200+ I’ve seen locally.
Check them out and please use my referral code 12086 if you do order something.
Gustin also make beautiful belts and wallets for a fraction of the price of what you’d post retail. These too are sourced domestically and made in San Francisco.
Available in straight or slim. Read up on the Gustin story. Their customer service has been great.
JEANS: Gustin #47 “The Natural”
Material: #47 Cone Mills Selvage, 12.75oz, Red-White-Blue ID
Price: $81 but market-based
New Belgium‘s “Accumulation.” White India Pale Ale. Like the Gustin Naturals, Accumulation may appear to be mellow and light, but there’s nothing sweet about this IPA. It’s built from the ground up on a solid backbone.
To quote from their website, Accumulation is a ” direct revolt to the longstanding tradition of brewing dark beers for winter.” Much like the Natural is a direct revolt against the world of mass-produced dark, indigo denim.
It was neither my intent to follow my first post with more Univ denim and Stone Brew nor to include any pictures of myself. It was my intent to buy local herbs and produce to use for our Thanksgiving feast.
Failed on all counts, but in the process we discovered a peaceful haven in North County…Stone Farms. Yes, property of the aforementioned Stone Brewing Company. Turns out they’re not currently selling their harvest but my wife and I enjoyed some Dandelion IPA while everyone enjoyed the grounds.
The same way I’m trying to recognize and reward Made in USA craftsmanship and innovation, I’m striving to buy more local goods. The more local beer I drink the tastier, smaller the carbon footprint, right?
For more on Stone Farms history check this out. If you’re in San Diego be sure to visit them at 9928 Protea Gardens Rd, Escondido, CA 92026
Welcome to Beer and Denim. Let me be clear. I love the quality, handcrafted beers coming out of San Diego. I appreciate the craftsmanship that goes into each recipe and brewing process. Furthermore I recognize the economic impact brewing has in San Diego. Beer creates jobs, drives tourism, and shapes even national politics. We have food farms, hops farms, yeast purveyors. The beer industry uses the chemistry departments of local universities. Beer runs in our veins 😉 San Diego literally cannot brew enough beer to meet international demand. I’m willing to pay a little more for a lot better product.
With that said I am slowly coming to appreciate finer clothes. It occurs to me that what is happening in clothing, particularly denim, is akin to the revolution American brewing undertook 20 years ago. From one-man shows to small, locally-owned shops. Others growing into bigger kids on the block. Sourcing U.S. materials. Bringing the product directly to the consumer in order to escape retail and manufacturing Goliaths.
Who knows if the resurgence in the American textile and fashion industry will one day rival that of the Craft Beer industry? It will certainly be fun to watch, and more fun to drink and wear.
Cheers and welcome to Beer & Denim.
THAT WAS THEN
Remember the store Miller’s Outpost? When “pre-shrunk” denim became a big deal (for Mom I suppose)?
I got this Levi’s 557xx Trucker Jacket around 1987. I think I was 16. I didn’t know it was a Levi’s Type III. I just wanted a “jean jacket.” I continued adding patches, studs and pins over the next few years.
This jacket has taken a beating.
Jacket: 1986 Levi’s 557xx
Material: 14 oz Sanforized Denim
Paired With: Budweiser!
Give me a break, I was 16, growing up in Fresno. We’d drink in the fig orchards. My idea of quality beers were Dutch and German lagers like Heineken, Becks or St. Pauli Girl. Silly boy. At least Anheiser-Busch was an American company…then.
THIS IS NOW
I got this raw denim beauty from UNIV in Encinitas. It’s manufactured for them in Los Angeles. This take on the Levi’s Type III features raw indigo 12 oz. Cone Mills denim. Not the greatest pictures but this is a very rich, deep indigo.
Note on size. I fit a Medium and even a Small Levi’s brand 557xx. This large is snug. And RIGID. I do expect it to loosen up as I break it in but if you’re buying this, size up.
Buyer beware. There are no selvedge accents on the UNIV jacket. Personally I like it’s unbroken lines.
Jacket: UNIV “Parks”
Material: 12 oz. Cone Mills unsanforized denim
Pair with: Stone IPA. For my first post I went with one a San Diego’s originals. Bitter and strong! There were already a few other breweries in town when Stone opened their original brewery in San Marcos (now occupied by Port/Lost Abbey) but I’d argue Stone lead the bitter-brigades’ war on “fizzy yellow beer” and the transformation of the India Pale Ale into the San Diego IPA. Goes well with boar, football and friends.
Just as the Levi’s Type III jacket set the standard for decades of style, San Diego set the standard for the IPA. For more on the history of the “jean jacket” visit RAWRDENIM.